Bus Ride ffrom TengCheng to Dali

2/25/2010

I managed to snag a few hours of sleep before it was time for the bus, it was just enough to allow my stomach to begin to settle. While I was sleeping the other guys took off to the hot springs which turned out to be the only thing around TengCheng worthwhile. Once we got on the bus I managed an aisle seat right next to a trash can just in case.
The trip from TengCheng back to civilization was mainly back roads through small villages and through the mountains. The area is rapidly changing as the Chinese government is spending billions on infrastructure improvements, literally blasting through mountains to build roads and highways to connect the country.
We were making our way up one of the many mountains that sit between TengCheng and Dali following too closely behind a motorcyclist. Our bus and the motorcycle were traveling in unison as we’d handle the “S” curves and pass the occasional construction trucks along the mountain. I was just starting to zone out when I felt a sudden jar, but unlike most jars I had felt so far in China this one was missing the blaring of the horn. I looked out the front of the bus to see the motorcyclist flying through the air as his motorcycle slides across the ground our driver manages to maneuver us around so that we don’t hit the bike or the person. I’d like to say at this point we stopped the bus to check and make sure he was ok, but I guess with a population that is over 1.3 Billion people one guy on the side of the mountain isn’t that important, I guess it’s another form of population control. Karma had a funny way of handling this situation as we continued up the mountain.
About 20 minutes after we left a man injured or dead on the side of the mountain our bus breaks down, and we sit 2 hours from anywhere on the side of the mountain. Our driver runs to the back of the bus were we are sitting and grabs a makeshift tool box he takes off his sport coat and transforms from driver to mechanic. Most everyone gets off the bus to walk around, however I decide to remain planted in my seat because frankly my stomach still wasn’t good. About 20 minutes goes by and nothing has happened our driver then comes up on the bus and grabs a welcome mat and disappears under the bus. Another 10 minutes go by and everyone is back on the bus and we’re on our way to Dali.
The 7 hour ride to Dali is approaching an 8 hour ride and I’m feeling worse by the minute, I try to close my eyes to manage some sleep and that doesn’t work so I pulled out my book and I’ve started to read. Before I know it we’ve left the back roads and we’re barreling down the new interstate. I focus my attention on back to my book. No sooner am I back to my book when I hear BANG BA BOOM BA BOOM BA BOOM, the distinct sound of a shredding tire, all I can do is shake my head and wonder when am I going to get off this bus and get my first hot shower in days. Our driver jumps off the bus and I looked behind us to see the rubber we left behind on the road. A minute later the bus is rolling again minus a tire.

When we finally pull into Dali we collect our bags from under the bus and Ted takes off down the street with some random Chinese guy talking like they’ve known each other for years. I’ve got 70 lbs of crap on my back and an upset stomach that is wondering where we are going, I ask the question and get the response “He’s going to help us with a ride.” We keep walking until we are at a city bus stop. Not to happy but too sick to truly express my level of disgust I ask again what are we doing and I hear that our hostel is about a 50 RMB ($7.50) cab ride from where we are and the bus will be a 5 RMB ($0.85) ride per person. I shake my head and ask if it will take us all the way to our hostel and I’m told it well and before I know it we’re standing on a cramped city bus for the 45 minute ride to the hostel.
As we approach the old town we turn suddenly and we’re running east of the city about 3 KM south of where we are suppose to be. I hear Ted’s voice behind me say “Get off at the next stop.” I do and I ask “what are we doing standing on the side of the road? I asked if the bus ran all the way into town and you said it did.” To which Ted responds with “We’ll have to walk from here.” And so we set off by foot 3 KM uphill, with an upset stomach and a small person on my back.
It took nearly an hour to walk under those conditions to our hostel and when we arrived I was excited to see the sign on the side of the building that read “24 hour Hot Water.” I reach my room and turn on the water and wait for 5 minutes to let the water get warm and it’s still cold. I turn it the other way and wait and it’s still cold, back the other one way more time and it’s still cold, so much for 24 hour hot water.